Manufaktur

In the context of luxury watches, the term 
"manufacture" (or manufactory) signifies the highest level of craftsmanship, quality, and tradition. A true watch "manufacture" produces its own movements in-house, rather than relying on standard calibers from external suppliers.
What does this mean for the watch enthusiast?

• Exclusivity and In-House Development: A manufacture movement is a proprietary development of the brand, often featuring specific complications that underscore its watchmaking expertise. It represents the complete production process handled by a single entity, from conception to assembly.
• Quality and Handcraft: The term "manufacture" is derived from the Latin manu factum, meaning "made by hand." While modern machines are used in a manufacture, handcraft plays a central role in finishing, assembling, and regulating the movement.
• Higher Prestige: A watch with a manufacture movement is considered significantly more exclusive and prestigious than a model with a standard caliber, or "ébauche"—a raw, unfinished movement purchased from a third party. Brands that produce their own movements command higher respect within the industry.
• Distinction from the Mass Market: Many luxury watch brands that do not operate as manufactures source their movements from specialized manufacturers like ETA. While such watches can also be of very high quality, they lack the exclusive component of an in-house developed movement.
• Competence and Tradition: The ability to develop and produce complex mechanical movements in-house demonstrates not only technical expertise but also a deep connection to the tradition of watchmaking.

The Distinction Between a Manufacture Movement and a Standard Caliber

• Manufacture Movement: A movement that is designed, developed, and largely produced by the watch brand itself. Many manufactures also add extensive finishing, such as intricate polishing and engraving, that can only be done by hand.
• Standard Caliber (e.g., ETA movement): A movement produced in large quantities by an external supplier and used by various watch brands. Brands that use these calibers often modify and finish them to add their own unique touch.

Example: Rolex vs. Tudor
A good example of the importance of being a manufacture is the distinction between Rolex and its sister brand, Tudor. Both are owned by the same foundation, but Rolex is considered the quintessential watch manufacture because it produces all its own movements. For a long time, Tudor used movements from external suppliers, though it has more recently begun offering models with its own in-house developed movements.
Conclusion
The term "manufacture" in luxury watches signifies the highest level of independence, craftsmanship, and technical ambition. A watch with a manufacture movement is not just a timepiece but a piece of history and engineering, crafted by a company that controls the entire value chain itself.